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SHOW - Shots in 65:24 format (Xpan)

With 7Artisans 9mm f5.6, using Julia Trotti‘s Sage LUT
P1012116.jpeg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5M2
  • 9.0 mm
  • 1/40 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • 0.3
  • ISO 100

P1012133.jpeg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5M2
  • 9.0 mm
  • 1/25 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • -1.7
  • ISO 100


P1012132.jpeg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5M2
  • 9.0 mm
  • 1/40 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto exposure
  • ISO 100
 
Thanks, Pete!

Yes, the 28-200 has really grown on me. It does annoy me sometimes - particularly when trying to focus in low light - but the compositional freedom it enables makes it very fun to shoot with creatively. I'm fairly certain it will see a lot of use. The 24-105 is feeling a little lonely lately...
 
That's excellent George.

That 65mm f/2 is a lens I've been considering to add my two other Sigma contemporary lenses. I don't know if I need it, but I want it.
 
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Nice shot George. How are you finding the 28-200 on the S1R, especially near 200mm?
Thank Paul.
I've compared my 28-200 to my 70-300 @ 200mm, F8. In the center, the 28-200 has a little softness - not much, but a little - compared to the 70-300. Running both raws through DxO Pure Raw 4 pretty much erases the difference. Again, at the center.

However at the edges, the difference is more pronounced - with the 70-300 being clearly sharper - and while DxO can partially close the gap, when you process both in DxO the 70-300 is still sharper at the edges. And when I say "edge" I literally mean the right edge of the frame at the same depth-of-field as the focus point, which was set to roughly hyper-focal distance. I have not tested corners yet but suspect the 70-300 to keep a comfortable edge there as well, unless the 28-200 has "up-side-down" field curvature, which is something I have yet to test for.

And this test was with the subject at about 10m, so not a long-distance/infinity test.

That's been basically my experience with the 28-200 with most of the comparisons I've done. It does quite well in the center, but can't compete at the edges with lenses that have a narrower focal length range. Still, I quite like it overall, in the right situation.
 
Thank Paul.
I've compared my 28-200 to my 70-300 @ 200mm, F8. In the center, the 28-200 has a little softness - not much, but a little - compared to the 70-300. Running both raws through DxO Pure Raw 4 pretty much erases the difference. Again, at the center.

However at the edges, the difference is more pronounced - with the 70-300 being clearly sharper - and while DxO can partially close the gap, when you process both in DxO the 70-300 is still sharper at the edges. And when I say "edge" I literally mean the right edge of the frame at the same depth-of-field as the focus point, which was set to roughly hyper-focal distance. I have not tested corners yet but suspect the 70-300 to keep a comfortable edge there as well, unless the 28-200 has "up-side-down" field curvature, which is something I have yet to test for.

And this test was with the subject at about 10m, so not a long-distance/infinity test.

That's been basically my experience with the 28-200 with most of the comparisons I've done. It does quite well in the center, but can't compete at the edges with lenses that have a narrower focal length range. Still, I quite like it overall, in the right situation.
Thanks George. I guess that's as good as we can reasonably expect of such a compact lens with a range of 28-200mm !
 
I've compared my 28-200 to my 70-300 @ 200mm, F8. In the center, the 28-200 has a little softness - not much, but a little - compared to the 70-300. Running both raws through DxO Pure Raw 4 pretty much erases the difference. Again, at the center.
Thanks, I speculated when the 28-200 first came out that DxO Pure Raw might be a tool to improve its performance. I keep thinking about the 28-200, don't have it yet, but I do use DxO Pure Raw 5 from time to time. So this is further temptation.
 
Thanks, I speculated when the 28-200 first came out that DxO Pure Raw might be a tool to improve its performance. I keep thinking about the 28-200, don't have it yet, but I do use DxO Pure Raw 5 from time to time. So this is further temptation.
DxO does help, but it's not a magic bullet. AND it takes time - about one minute or so per S1R image on my two-year-old MBP.

Also, if you want to sharpen up to corners at the long end on the 28-200, F11 helps, although you loose a little in the center due to diffraction. But the corners do sharpen up noticeably at F11 @ 200mm.
 
Another electrical storm shot. And: what happens when you leave OIS/IBIS on for an extended exposure while on a tripod. This was at least a minute of exposure time (via Live View Composite) using a 2.5 SS.
P1200042 2.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5
  • LUMIX S 28-200/F4-7.1
  • 88.0 mm
  • ƒ/5.7
  • 2.5 sec
  • Pattern
  • Manual exposure
  • ISO 1600
 
Another electrical storm shot. And: what happens when you leave OIS/IBIS on for an extended exposure while on a tripod. This was at least a minute of exposure time (via Live View Composite) using a 2.5 SS.
View attachment 5648
Really great shot, but a pity that the IS did that ghosting.
 
Really great shot, but a pity that the IS did that ghosting.
I assumed the camera would know it was on a tripod and switch it off, obviously not so good to remember and the OIS switch on the lens is handy 'if' using an OIS lens, otherwise it'll need delving into the menu or a button assigned.

I'm still surprised it ghosted the tree in the middle, can't see it anywhere else.
 
The old Pentax DSLRs had a physical switch to turn SR on or off, which was handy in these situations. I think now tripod use is so rare that camera makers decided it didn't merit the real estate, though if you frequently use a tripod I imagine you could assign a button to this function or at least add it to the quick menu.
 
The old Pentax DSLRs had a physical switch to turn SR on or off, which was handy in these situations. I think now tripod use is so rare that camera makers decided it didn't merit the real estate, though if you frequently use a tripod I imagine you could assign a button to this function or at least add it to the quick menu.
Yip, the potential problem is when you forget and it's so easy.

I only have OIS lenses so switches are there and these switch off all IS in camera also don't they?
 
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