Not using eye detect? If you select body what instruction are you giving the AF to use? It sounds like it's guessing for you?kid and my dog in zone focus or spot AF with subject detect on (body
Not using eye detect? If you select body what instruction are you giving the AF to use? It sounds like it's guessing for you?kid and my dog in zone focus or spot AF with subject detect on (body
Well, it's using eye/face/body where it just goes to whatever it can find next. I'm not sure if there's a way to select body without also including eye/face in subject detect.Not using eye detect? If you select body what instruction are you giving the AF to use? It sounds like it's guessing for you?
That'll do it for sure. When the light levels get low, time to break out the large aperture lenses. Even if you're stopping down, they still open up during focusingI tried shooting an open mic night for my church and most of those were mis focused but most were at 12800 ISO or higher and at those settings it's not too surprising...
Is f4 fast enough for good low light AF on Panasonic? I'm looking at replacing it with the 24-105 or the 70-200 f4 if I can't make it work for regular shooting.That'll do it for sure. When the light levels get low, time to break out the large aperture lenses. Even if you're stopping down, they still open up during focusing
These are cool Markus ! Love the colors too.Hmmmmm. I only have the S5, & don't shoot video either. I've found AF-C to be very very good. Good enough, that I don't even bother to shoot bursts, simply click off a single frame at the appropriate moment. Perhaps if I shot bursts at higher frame rates I might notice inaccuracies? For example, I was just heading into town one day, and saw a truck convoy heading past. 70 km/hr area, I stopped and clicked off about 80 shots, all AF-C, and there might have been one, maybe that were a bit out of focus. To me, that's a pretty damn good hit rate. Same with animals -the camera draws a box around the head, I press the shutter, & 99% of the time, the focus is on the eye. Even at f1.8-f2 on my 85 & 50mm primes. It actually surprises me constantly, at how good it is. Here look. 70mm @ f2.8
View attachment 6420View attachment 6421
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To be continued.............
Not sure what the lenses are doing but, on the S5ii...I always shoot constant, and I use BACK BUTTON to focus. I just put the dot on what I want to be in focus, hit the back button AF-ON, and boom...it's done, in focus. Different experience for me on different cameras. On Fuji I previously would let the camera bounce around and find the focus, then with the shutter I would confirm and shoot. I do NOT do that with Panasonic. No reason really, but once I picked up a Panasonic it felt different, and just moved different. So I went with it.Well, it's using eye/face/body where it just goes to whatever it can find next. I'm not sure if there's a way to select body without also including eye/face in subject detect.
That's the same method I'm using, but I'm always getting out of focus shots. Not sure what I'm doing wrongNot sure what the lenses are doing but, on the S5ii...I always shoot constant, and I use BACK BUTTON to focus. I just put the dot on what I want to be in focus, hit the back button AF-ON, and boom...it's done, in focus. Different experience for me on different cameras. On Fuji I previously would let the camera bounce around and find the focus, then with the shutter I would confirm and shoot. I do NOT do that with Panasonic. No reason really, but once I picked up a Panasonic it felt different, and just moved different. So I went with it.
I can only speak for my S5-1, but it's not a Sony. If your subject is not moving, don't use AF-C. I've experimented out of curiosity, doesn't work. Don't half press the shutter button and wait, just depress it fully in one smooth motion. Unless of course the camera is hunting backwards and forwards looking for focus. If it's low light that's the issue, break out the larger aperture lensesThat's the same method I'm using, but I'm always getting out of focus shots. Not sure what I'm doing wrong
Sometimes f2.8 is too slow, if it's getting really dark, and your subject doesn't have great contrast. Especially if your subject is moving, and you're in AF-C. On my S5 anyway. Then it's time to break out the fast prime's. It's not just a Panasonic thing mind you. My Canon DSLR's required me to sometimes pop the flash on, you could set the flash to project an infrared grid pattern that the AF system could then pick up on. Even if it didn't flash. I haven't really gone looking if my S5 and Lumix flash has that or a similar feature, the AF is really good I've found, and not really needed it.Is f4 fast enough for good low light AF on Panasonic? I'm looking at replacing it with the 24-105 or the 70-200 f4 if I can't make it work for regular shooting.
In a word yes, should be fine using eye detect when needing ISO 12800 1/125s exposures which is really dim light. I've managed 300mm exposure 70-300 with base AF f5.6 ooen aperture available.Is f4 fast enough for good low light AF on Panasonic? I'm looking at replacing it with the 24-105 or the 70-200 f4 if I can't make it work for regular shooting.
For example here, as it was getting dark (darker than it looks in the photo, you could easily feel the AF slowing down, & being a bit more hesitant. Even though I was at f3.5, and there was plenty of contrast. Switch to a larger aperture prime, or shoot static subjects, and good as gold again in the same conditions.Sometimes f2.8 is too slow, if it's getting really dark, and your subject doesn't have great contrast. Especially if your subject is moving, and you're in AF-C. On my S5 anyway. Then it's time to break out the fast prime's. It's not just a Panasonic thing mind you. My Canon DSLR's required me to sometimes pop the flash on, you could set the flash to project an infrared grid pattern that the AF system could then pick up on. Even if it didn't flash. I haven't really gone looking if my S5 and Lumix flash has that or a similar feature, the AF is really good I've found, and not really needed it.
Can't use the AF assist as it is disruptive to the events I'm shooting, unfortunately. That is encouraging about the 70-300 (that is the lens I would really prefer due to half macro and the extra reach). Does shutter speed influence focusing accuracy? If I'm shooting people I would probably put it at 1/400s at the slowest.In a word yes, should be fine using eye detect when needing ISO 12800 1/125s exposures which is really dim light. I've managed 300mm exposure 70-300 with base AF f5.6 ooen aperture available.
At 300mm reach only better alternative is the 70-200 f2.8 Pro with 1.4x TC giving 280mm f4.
70-200 f2.8 will help massively if you can deal with the size/weight but f4 should be a big leap in most cases.
For closer range I'm obviously using the AF light, maybe that is what helped my 300mm f5.6 as I was around 4m distance?
f7.1 would be a stretch for the AF. Even now most concert photographers use a f2.8 for those dark backlit stages but for a church I'd imagine f4 should be fine. Most of those guys are carrying forward their DSLR habits and the need for f2.8, modern mirrorless has better low EV AF performance.
TBH I'd need to test my 24-105 f4 properly for you without AF assist if your AF target is beyond the usage of the AF assist light which has a limit of I'm totally guessing 4m or a bit more depending upon back lighting etc.
If you are able to test the AF on the 24-105 in low light that would be amazing! Would greatly appreciate itIn a word yes, should be fine using eye detect when needing ISO 12800 1/125s exposures which is really dim light. I've managed 300mm exposure 70-300 with base AF f5.6 ooen aperture available.
At 300mm reach only better alternative is the 70-200 f2.8 Pro with 1.4x TC giving 280mm f4.
70-200 f2.8 will help massively if you can deal with the size/weight but f4 should be a big leap in most cases.
For closer range I'm obviously using the AF light, maybe that is what helped my 300mm f5.6 as I was around 4m distance?
f7.1 would be a stretch for the AF. Even now most concert photographers use a f2.8 for those dark backlit stages but for a church I'd imagine f4 should be fine. Most of those guys are carrying forward their DSLR habits and the need for f2.8, modern mirrorless has better low EV AF performance.
TBH I'd need to test my 24-105 f4 properly for you without AF assist if your AF target is beyond the usage of the AF assist light which has a limit of I'm totally guessing 4m or a bit more depending upon back lighting etc.
New Products
It's safe to assume that the next generation of the LUMIX S1 series will be released soon.
Panasonic is not satisfied with the specifications of the new camera and is continuing development work, such as the video specifications.
8K/30P may be a "compromise" specification to solve the problem.
8K/60P may be what some users really want, and some even think 8K120P would be ideal.
However, more time needs to be spent on developing the 120P.
Panasonic first chose to realize a wide range of uses.
In addition to the LUMIX GH7 with Arri LogC3, Panasonic and Arri plan to continue working together in the future.
lens
Regarding lenses, the current direction is to design them to match the body.
The early LUMIX S1 series was "large" and the corresponding lenses fit well.
The body was then significantly lighter with the LUMIX S5, and the company focused on small and medium-sized lenses.
With the release of the LUMIX S9, lenses such as the "LUMIX S 18-40mm F4.5-6.3" exhibited at the P&I Show are attracting attention.
Some users have stated that the focal length of the "LUMIX S 28-200mm F4-7.1 MACRO OIS" is still not long enough, and Panasonic is currently looking into this.
Panasonic said that in light of the L-Mount Alliance, non-official L-Mount AF lenses may be released.
LUMIX Lab
We would like to hear the opinions of more users and continue to improve and upgrade our software.
LUMIX Lab is currently internally considering whether to support older models.
Lots of information, and very interesting. Thank youMore from Asobinet on the forthcoming S1 replacement, and smaller lenses for the S9:
https://asobinet-com.translate.goog...uto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp
I really hope they add Lumix Lab support to all of the L2 chip cameras, at least. It would be strange and very Sony-like if their higher end products didn't receive a software feature of a lower end model of the same hardware generation.More from Asobinet on the forthcoming S1 replacement, and smaller lenses for the S9:
https://asobinet-com.translate.goog...uto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp
Based on the comments by Sean on this week's LUMIX LIVE webcast, it sounds like the S5II and S5IIx will get an update to work with LUMIX Lab.I really hope they add Lumix Lab support to all of the L2 chip cameras, at least. It would be strange and very Sony-like if their higher end products didn't receive a software feature of a lower end model of the same hardware generation.
It is also announced at Panasonic general website to:Based on the comments by Sean on this week's LUMIX LIVE webcast, it sounds like the S5II and S5IIx will get an update to work with LUMIX Lab.
I seems that the video version of the S1 is delaying the release. It is pity as I am interested more about the photo version but let's just wait. I hope it is not too heavy and bulky for my use.More from Asobinet on the forthcoming S1 replacement, and smaller lenses for the S9:
https://asobinet-com.translate.goog...uto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp