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March 2025 Image and Video Thread

The Rigger said:
It's mold from all the rain they get. :D:D
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Funny. Other places you learn that moss grows on the north sides of trees, and if you are lost in the woods you can use this as a compass to know your directions. But I swear, in the Portland area moss grows on all sides of the trees. No mother nature compass there. :(
 
This is a local landmark, but the sails have been off for the past three years getting refurbished. Now they're back.

54408538957_4ecafa8965_o.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S1
  • LUMIX S 24-105/F4
  • 42.0 mm
  • ƒ/8
  • 1/160 sec
  • Pattern
  • Auto bracket
  • -0.7
  • ISO 100

New Sails on Chesterton Windmill by Paul Kaye, on Flickr

Here's a shot from the past of it that I really like - taken with a Pen-F back in 2017:

31909379812_1df4d895e9_o.jpg
  • OLYMPUS CORPORATION - PEN-F
  • OLYMPUS M.17mm F1.8
  • 17.0 mm
  • ƒ/5.6
  • 1/4000 sec
  • Pattern
  • Manual exposure
  • -2
  • ISO 200

Sunset Behind the Mill by Paul Kaye, on Flickr
 
A few more from yesterday's walk. S5iix with Lumix S 50mm f1.8 lens.

pjd-fire-dept-speed-boat-p1001962-l-forum.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5M2X
  • LUMIX S 50/F1.8
  • 50.0 mm
  • ƒ/1.8
  • 1/1600 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • Manual exposure
  • ISO 100


pjd-flower-cu-p1001966-65-24-l-forum.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5M2X
  • LUMIX S 50/F1.8
  • 50.0 mm
  • ƒ/2.8
  • 1/800 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • Manual exposure
  • ISO 100


pjd-marshall-park-creek-cu-p1001986-l-forum.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5M2X
  • LUMIX S 50/F1.8
  • 50.0 mm
  • ƒ/16
  • 1/3 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • Manual exposure
  • ISO 100


I have no idea what this sign is about, and haven't bothered doing an internet search about it. I just thought it was odd.
pjd-who-is-p1001963-l-forum.jpg
  • Panasonic - DC-S5M2X
  • LUMIX S 50/F1.8
  • 50.0 mm
  • ƒ/1.8
  • 1/1600 sec
  • Center-Weighted Average
  • Manual exposure
  • ISO 100
 
Yay getting out for exercise and doing a little shooting on the side. :)

Same park today, but pulled the Auto-Yashinon 50/1.4 out this time. Not quite as sharp as the Hexanon 40/1.8, but the main thing I noticed is that it's significantly cooler color.

54411086610_ffca39ce28_b.jpg
20250325-SDIM3457 by Travis Butler, on Flickr
Sigma fp, Auto-Yashinon 50/1.4

And while the trees are still mostly bare...

54410889509_2319e7e16c_b.jpg
20250325-SDIM3460 by Travis Butler, on Flickr

A few are starting to leaf out their bad selves!

54410709036_4c33710cd9_b.jpg
20250325-SDIM3466 by Travis Butler, on Flickr

We're getting some color from the grass, as well.

54409837557_5a5337b23c_b.jpg
20250325-SDIM3468 by Travis Butler, on Flickr
(The branch is from the high winds we've been having over the last week.)
 
Travis Butler said:
So, a riverside location semi-wasted by a lot of grey overcast. :(

I was going to say this was the best I could do for blossoms, but today's luck was a little better... in the legacy lens thread. :)
Click to expand...
Some constructive criticism - all of these seem to me to be massively under-exposed. It looks like the highlights in the clouds are being protected at all costs but I think you need to sacrifice a bit to bring up the rest of the image.
 
Jonathan-Mac said:
Some constructive criticism - all of these seem to me to be massively under-exposed. It looks like the highlights in the clouds are being protected at all costs but I think you need to sacrifice a bit to bring up the rest of the image.
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Thanks, and I appreciate it!

The lighting was pretty weird that day - overcast and gloomy, with one area of the sky still fairly blue, but the clouds encroaching on that patch of sky as a storm was moving in. I was trying to capture the feel of that gloom in the exposure, but it sounds like I overdid it. How would you suggest handling it?

The Kansas Aviation Museum pics I'm working on now have similar issues; a lot of the planes are in rooms with minimal overhead lighting and overall dimly lit, but windows letting in bright sun from outside for part of the room (and worst case backlighting the planes).
 
CharlesH said:
In your photo editor select SKY and drop the exposure about a stop. Then increase the photo's exposure.

Or just decrease the highlights and increase the photo's exposure.
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Oh, sorry; that part's not the problem, I know how to fiddle with the exposure in PP.

What I was asking for is suggestions on what to aim for to get the result I wanted - or whether that effect was just a bad idea. It was overcast and gloomy, and I was trying to get that across - and how out-of-place the bright patches of blue looked in that environment - but if it just looks underexposed then that may be too tricky an effect.
 
Maybe just up the shadows and blacks a bit and keep the sky-as-is?
 
Travis Butler said:
What I was asking for is suggestions on what to aim for to get the result I wanted - or whether that effect was just a bad idea. It was overcast and gloomy, and I was trying to get that across - and how out-of-place the bright patches of blue looked in that environment - but if it just looks underexposed then that may be too tricky an effect.
Click to expand...
Okay, I see what you mean. For me the picture was not bad, and I could see it was a cloudy day. This effect is what I try to do a lot with HDR photography (Rec. 2020 photography, not the older way of combining several exposures of the same scene to get a compressed 8 bit image). With HDR photos displayed on an HDR monitor you see a much wider dynamic range; it looks closer to real life. I think that picture in HDR would have shown the effect you were trying for very nicely.
 
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