2 questions about S5_ & S1H ISO

[PJD]

I have a S5iiX, but if you have a dual ISO S5_ or S1H camera, I'm curious to know ...

1.) What ISO do you most-often shoot at?

2.) The native ISOs for the S5ii & S5iiX are ISO 640 & ISO 4000. At what ISO value does the "upper" ISO range begin? For example, is it ISO 3200 or ?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[Oíche]

I have a S5iiX, but if you have a dual ISO S5_ or S1H camera, I'm curious to know ...

1.) What ISO do you most-often shoot at?

2.) The native ISOs for the S5ii & S5iiX are ISO 640 & ISO 4000. At what ISO value does the "upper" ISO range begin? For example, is it ISO 3200 or ?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Charles or the Dutch guys might know this if they weigh in. I can't even look up the 900 page manual any more but it's in there. I think dpreview l-mount forum probably had a thread.

I can't even get photo exposure SooC correct and relying on RAW and the ISO invariance afterwards. I clearly don't understand the metering on this, I could always nail it with simpler Pentax DSLR and film cameras even calculating ND filter stops, 6 and 10 etc. in my head and I am technically and mathematically minded

Like I said elsewhere I would hate to learn photography on these things, too mega complicated. I am just too used to simple exposure triangle, stop compensations using M mode. But trying A mode,auto ISO is out by 2 stops so I must be using the wrong meter mode. I'll need to read about these in the manual.

That's why P&S is back

 

[CharlesH]

The native ISOs for my S1H with VLOG were the same, 640 and 4000. The high ISO starts at 4000 (that is, you will have more noise at 3200 than at 4000). I typically shoot the S5IIx at 640, and if there is not enough light I go right to 4000.

 

[Oíche]

The native ISOs for my S1H with VLOG were the same, 640 and 4000. The high ISO starts at 4000 (that is, you will have more noise at 3200 than at 4000). I typically shoot the S5IIx at 640, and if there is not enough light I go right to 4000.

Charles being a video noob I'm confused, do you choose ISO or what happens on auto ISO?

Is ISO 640 the lowest possible video ISO? Is it better to leave it on auto ISO?

I tried hiking videos last week, the sky looked lovely but mountains underexposed, is there a setting to auto boost these shadows so you get usable video SooC?

The damn phone did it although obviously doesn't have the same potential.

Like I said.... Potato head noob videographer, I apologise

 

[Lsake]

ISO100 = Sunny Day
ISO400 = Cloudy Day
ISO800 = For faster shutter
ISO4000 = Night
Auto ISO = A mode, M mode (Wildlife)

ISO4000 seems to be the point where the high gain circuit switch occurs on the S5. I think you can set it manually on the S5II but I’ve not messed with it.

 

[Lsake]

Charles or the Dutch guys might know this if they weigh in. I can't even look up the 900 page manual any more but it's in there. I think dpreview l-mount forum probably had a thread.

I can't even get photo exposure SooC correct and relying on RAW and the ISO invariance afterwards. I clearly don't understand the metering on this, I could always nail it with simpler Pentax DSLR and film cameras even calculating ND filter stops, 6 and 10 etc. in my head and I am technically and mathematically minded

Like I said elsewhere I would hate to learn photography on these things, too mega complicated. I am just too used to simple exposure triangle, stop compensations using M mode. But trying A mode,auto ISO is out by 2 stops so I must be using the wrong meter mode. I'll need to read about these in the manual.

That's why P&S is back

It sounds like you might have some exposure compensation set. But also looking into it, the meter is pretty useless outside of manual mode, it doesn’t seem to give any readout. Even when there is obvious over or under exposure the meter will read 0 in any of the auto modes.

You might try enabling the display expo meter setting, this gives an on screen display with a kind of meter when you change settings in the semi auto modes.

 

[Oíche]

It sounds like you might have some exposure compensation set. But also looking into it, the meter is pretty useless outside of manual mode, it doesn’t seem to give any readout. Even when there is obvious over or under exposure the meter will read 0 in any of the auto modes.

You might try enabling the display expo meter setting, this gives an on screen display with a kind of meter when you change settings in the semi auto modes.

I only use it in manual mode, there are blank modes between the reds (on f number and shutter speed) which I go for max exposure there and still under-exposing. I'm placing the exposure on zero. I must be exposing for highlights or something but obvious I can push it much more to the right. I'll trial and work it out.

 

[Nevyn72]

The native ISOs for my S1H with VLOG were the same, 640 and 4000. The high ISO starts at 4000 (that is, you will have more noise at 3200 than at 4000). I typically shoot the S5IIx at 640, and if there is not enough light I go right to 4000.

I agree, I do the same with my S5iiX, although I will still go to ISO 1250 before switching to 4000

 

[CharlesH]

It sounds like you might have some exposure compensation set. But also looking into it, the meter is pretty useless outside of manual mode, it doesn’t seem to give any readout. Even when there is obvious over or under exposure the meter will read 0 in any of the auto modes.

For video I only use manual mode. I shoot HDR video and don't wan't the exposure changing during a scene.

 

[Nevyn72]

For video I only use manual mode. I shoot HDR video and don't wan't the exposure changing during a scene.

I do mostly the same. In some use cases I might set the ISO to auto, set the aperture by hand and set the shutter angle to 180. And ofcourse use an ND-filter

 

[PJD]

The native ISOs for my S1H with VLOG were the same, 640 and 4000. The high ISO starts at 4000 (that is, you will have more noise at 3200 than at 4000). I typically shoot the S5IIx at 640, and if there is not enough light I go right to 4000.

Thanks for this. My previous video camera was a Blackmagic Pocket 4K, and its native ISOs were 400 & 3200. The upper ISO range started at 1250, so for example, there was vastly more noise at ISO 1000 compared to ISO 1250. My impression so far is the S5iiX exhibits much less noise overall compared to the Pocket 4K, so I hadn't noticed yet where the "dividing line" is between the S5iiX lower & upper ISO ranges.

My current plan is to shoot VIDEO using: Manual exposure mode. V-Log (with V-Log View Assist). Usually ISO 400 or ISO 4000. Manual white balance, but sometimes 5600K, etc. depending on desired effect. "6K" resolution (or 5.8K, etc.) or 4K UHD (or 4K DCI), often cropped in Davinci to ~2.39 wide screen. 10-bit h265 >150 mbps or ProRes 422 (occasionally ProRes HQ). Usually 24p, but sometimes 30p or higher. Auto-focus or manual focus, depending on the subject/situation. Usually continuous AF Mode 2, or use the switch on the Lumix S lenses to switch to MF (with red-colored peaking enabled). I have the camera's EVF & LCD set to display WYSIWYG, and adjust exposure based on the image display together with the little +- number meter at the bottom edge of the display (I've turned off the weird, screen-hogging, sliding red shutter/aperture display). Shutter displayed as degrees, usually 180, but occasionally higher or lower for effect/exposure. I use either round 77mm variable-ND or solid IR-cut ND filters, the latter being preferred (to avoid vari-ND polarizing effects), but of course solids are less convenient. In the past I owned a matte box & rectangular filters, but that's an expense & hassle best dealt with as a rental when a project budget allows for it, plus an assistant! I use a function button to toggle 80% zebras, and another for waveform (I don't use histogram), when needed. Image stabilization on (in various amounts) when hand-holding the camera, but IS turned off when using a tripod (so the IS doesn't "fight" smooth fluid-head tripod moves). Please tell me what I'm forgetting!

Davinci Resolve (the Studio version was bundled with my now sold Pocket 4K camera) converts V-Log to nice-looking 709 in one click. From there, use its Color page to grade to taste.

With video, there's of course more, there's always more.

 

[Nevyn72]

Usually ISO 400

I think you mean 640, is the lower limit for V-log

Usually 20p, but sometimes 30p or higher

I think you meant 25p . But I would prefer always a a whole multiplication number of the Herz freq in your country to avoid flicker with lighting. So 25p/50/100p in Europe, 30/60/120p in the USA.

I know you can fix the flickering in post, but wil make the image softer.

And yeah Davinci and V-log are very good friends

 

[PJD]

Ah, yes, I intended to type “24p” (23.98 fps), which is what I usually shoot at.

The Pocket 4K camera would helpfully display in its UI three flicker-free shutter speeds one might select for any frame rate you set the camera to. I don’t have the camera anymore; I wish I’d written those values down when I had it. I suspect the info is available online. The S5iix flicker-free feature is only available in auto-exposure mode, which I almost never use.

I don’t know if the S5iiX shutter angle “steps” are flicker-free for the current FPS. For example, when shooting at 24p in the USA, the S5iiX degree angle steps include 358 - 346 - 288 - 240 - 180 - 172.8 - 144 - 120 - 90 - etc.

 

[PJD]

I think you mean 640, is the lower limit for V-log ...

And also yes: I meant to type "ISO 640", not "ISO 400". Old Pocket 4K camera habits die hard.

 

[CharlesH]

My current plan is to shoot VIDEO using ...

I think you have it all covered well. My only differences, I use SS instead of degrees, because I've been doing that so long it is hard to change. And I leave the waveform monitor on full time.

 

[Michael_too]

My current plan is to shoot VIDEO using: ....

My additional tip would be to put the function to turn the evf or lcd to a monochrome image under a function button. Focus peaking stands out more clearly on a black-and-white image.
I also added peaking sensitivity to the quick menu as it needs adjusting depending on the contrast in the subject. I have the original S5, so I must rely a bit more on MF ;-)
I also use SS. I rarely change framerates and it makes calculations with lighting frequencies a little easier.
Having Boost IS under a function button can be very useful when shooting hand-held. I also put the audio recording level under the exposure-compensation button as I don't need that button for video anyway. I really like how you can put your most useful functions under a slew of buttons or in the quick menu.